Note: This blog is actually for the date of the post, Wednesday, July 27. I have actually caught up (for now, we’ll see what Quebec brings…)
Got out a bit later than planned but still managed to get to Tim Hortons at the Rideau Centre for a couple of maple dip donuts (a recurring theme) and a Ice Capp shortly after 9a. Didn’t care for that much, but it did grow on me a bit. As we were under a time crunch to make the 10a changing of the guard ceremony on Parliament Hill we wolfed our food down and headed out.
We got to Parliament Hill and staked out a pretty nice spot at about 9:45a. I ceded my spot to an old lady (and this time nobody else jumped in the gap, yay) but I could see just fine over the kids. There were some chairs set up facing Parliament for dignitaries and a few guardsmen with their fancy furry black hats and red coats standing about.
The ceremony started promptly at 10a with bagpipe music from an incoming group of kilt-bedecked guards that marched down Wellington Street and into the green commons in front of the Parliament building. Then the existing guardsmen marched in formation to our left and awaited the arrival of the new guardsmen, who marched in after an incoming (from the other direction) group of trouser-bedecked guards playing more traditional brass and drum instruments. There were inspections, commanders marching about, color guards going to and fro, fixing of bayonets (with one guardsman heart-breakingly dropping his), presentation of arms, and exchanges of pleasantries. I couldn’t make heads or tails of it but it was all so deliciously… British.
Changing of the Guard, Parliament Hill, Ottawa
The ceremony over, Addison posed with a guardsman who had the patience of a saint. Then we went to the welcome tent to the right of Parliament to get tickets for a tour. The helpers there have a great way of sussing out your language — they simply just say “bonjour” or “hello” and see what they get in response. Anyhow, got tickets to the 12:50 tour.
Centre Block, Parliament Hill
Ooooo, gargoyle rain spouts!
It only being 11 or so we headed back to the room for a few minutes then went out to find something to eat on Sparks Street not far from Parliament. We ate at Vie Bella, a nice little sandwich / sub shop. I had a toasted sub with a variety of spicy Italian meats that was delicious. We then stopped by an adjoining store selling Native American goods. Much of it was very pricey (they even had stacked stones like on Rush’s Test for Echo album cover — apparently it is an inunnguaq, a formation used to denote food caches and the like). However, Genetta found some earrings and Addison bought some “spirit rocks.”
Reflections in Ottawa
Headed off to the Parliament tour and, while waiting, soaked in the view of a beautiful cathedral to the east as well as the Ottawa river with Quebec beyond to the north.
Gatineau, Quebec view from Parliament Hill
Passed through security and had a wonderful tour. We learned that though Parliament was in recess for the summer holiday and normally there weren’t caucuses going on (they normally happen on Wednesdays) that there was a special caucus being done by the opposition NDP because they needed to replace their leader who needed time off to fight cancer. They had met that morning and had chosen an interim leader. Hopefully Jack Layton will get better soon!
We got to see the library, built in 1876. It was the last part of the original Parliament buildings to be finished, construction on the Hill having started in 1860 in preparation for the nation’s 1867 birth with the Canadian Confederation (whereby Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia formed Canada). It is now, ironically, the oldest part of the Parliament buildings as most of the buildings were burnt in a great fire in 1916. The library survived, however, because the last one out closed the door behind him and the wind was blowing from the north (the library being in the northern part of the complex). What a gorgeous room! Sadly, we weren’t allowed to take pictures but it was spectacular. It is circular, with two floors and the coat of arms of each province present on the stack-ends. In the middle, towering above the reading tables, towers a white marble statue of Queen Victoria — the Queen at the time of Canada’s formation and the person that decided that Ottawa, being centrally located between Toronto and Montreal (both fighting to be the capital) and adjacent to French-speaking Quebec, would be the capital city.
Exterior of The Library of Parliament
Next we learned that the building was built with Alberta stone — much of which contained fossils visible today. We visited the Senate chambers, sadly the House of Commons was not open. The 105 senators are appointed and serve until age 75, meaning that there is very slow transition. They mostly review legislation coming from the House of Commons, however, and rarely interfere. You can read more about their system here. The room is spectacular, bedecked in red carpet. In the center sits the chair of the speaker, with two thrones behind — one for the Queen and one for her husband. Canada is a constitutional monarchy with its head of state being the British royalty but the head of government being the Prime Minister. To the left and right of the center three chairs were two little chairs to be used by pages — what a job that must be!
Senate chambers with comfy chairs
We then went to a chamber where the original four provinces were represented as well as portraits of many British royalty. French royalty is also present in a room specially allocated for the Quebecois. In the past it was used as a smoking room but now it is an area where dignitaries are often feted.
Leaving the building, and deciding that the line to climb up the Peace Tower was too long, we headed off to check out the cats on Parliament Hill. Prior to the 1970s cats were used to control the mouse population. After they were no longer needed, however, the friendly — but now feral — cats were allowed to stay on Parliament Hill and are looked after by a volunteer. They have little houses they live in and can survive the harsh Ottawa winter. We saw four of them — adorable. It really made us miss our cats so much. We also saw a squirrel that was almost solid black in color.
Quit eating from the Parliament Hill cats' bowls!
As we were leaving Parliament Hill a Canadian Mountie was getting geared up and I got some great pictures of her in front of Parliament. Even though it was quite a mild day (well, by our standards, I suppose the natives would call it hot) in the low-80s I think she’d be miserable in that heavy coat, gloves, etc. I coaxed Addison into petting the horse as well.
Canadian Mountie
We then went back to Sparks Street and got some Slush Puppies. They were yummy. We read a plaque about some Irish guy that was in the early government and felled by an assassin in 1868 — I thought the U.S. had a monopoly on that sort of business! Continuing down Sparks Street then turning back to Wellington Street we passed many important buildings — the Supreme Court of Canada, the Library of Canada, the Bank of Canada, etc.
Turned around and headed back to the hotel. On the way we managed to see two boats navigating the lock system of Rideau canal — fascinating stuff. After a rest in the hotel we headed out to Zak’s Diner in Bywater to the east of the hotel. While the cream soda, coffee shake, and nachos were delicious neither Michelle, Addison, or I particularly cared for our entrees. And at nearly $100 it turned out to be an expensive meal. It’s all good.
Chateau Laurier by day
Small craft navigating Ottawa's Rideau canal locks
Left Zak’s and checked out the park next to the hotel, soaking in the view of Parliament Hill and Quebec bey0nd the river. Headed back to the hotel and the kids got ready to swim. I didn’t feel so well so I didn’t join them in the pool but I did watch them for a bit. Afterwards Genetta chose to go to bed but Michelle, Addison, and I headed back to Parliament Hill for the 10p light show we saw the night before — Mosaika (pronounced mosaic-a).
Parliament Hill at dusk
What a treat! It projected the story of Canada on the front of the centre block of Parliament (the main building) and was accompanied with narration, sound effects, and fog. It covered the Native Americans, the arrival of Europeans, Confederation, the World Wars (including a moving visualization of “In Flanders Fields”), and more modern topics. It’s well worth the price of admission (free!).
Centre Block, Parliament Hill transformed by Mosaika sound and light show
Headed back to the room, the others to sleep, myself to write this infernal blog (and pay another $13.95 for the right to use the internet, grrr!).
Our first day in Canada was spent in Niagara Falls. A location that, while in Canada, could pass for the United States with ease. Our second day, that beautiful drive along the northern shore of Lake Ontario, spanned terrain that could have easily been the south shore — from the sprawl of Buffalo to the area north of Syracuse to the foothills of the Adirondacks. It was during this, our third full day in Canada, that I finally got a glimpse of what Canada is about. Not that I’m ready to turn in my passport or anything (sorry, the winters are just too cold…) but I have a greater appreciation for our northern neighbor and I finally understand why every schoolmate’s girlfriend back in the 80s lived in Canada — it’s darn nice here.