Woke up on my second solo day just after 8a, lounged about and finally ate breakfast around 10a. Went light with a croissant, toast, and some tasty coffee. Left the hotel at about 11a (which leads me to believe that maybe, just maybe, our always leaving the hotel later than I’d like wasn’t due to the family) and walked past Trevi Fountain. It wasn’t running as it was being maintained, which led to a different photo opportunity.
Trevi Fountain under maintenance
Headed to the Piazza di Spagna, a plaza in front of the famed Spanish Steps. In the middle of the plaza was a fountain shaped like a ship, Fontana della Barcaccia, erected in the 17th century. On the plaza was also the home in which the poet John Keats died of tuberculosis at the young age of twenty-five. Sadly the steps themselves were closed for cleaning, but I could still see the 16th century church Trinita dei Monti at the top with the Obelisco Sallustiano, an early Roman Empire obelisk crafted in imitation of the ancient (even at that time) Egyptian ones, in front.
Fontana della Barcaccia in front of the Spanish Steps
Trinita dei Monti church at the top of the Spanish Steps
The Spanish Steps, closed for cleaning
The house where John Keats died
Next I headed up quite a slope and some steps toward the Villa Borghese’s gardens. On the way I took a picture of a palace with soldiers in front. They motioned me towards them and asked me to delete the picture as they were concerned about security, which I did. The gardens were quite peaceful and due to the trees cooler than walking about the streets of Rome. There were many exotic plants, marble busts of many famous people, an arch, and fake looking Egyptian obelisks, temple facades, etc. There was also a nice round pond with a fountain in the middle.
Simple but cool fountain on the way to Villa Borghese gardens
View of Saint Peter’s Basilica from near the Villa Borghese gardens
Round pond with fountain in the Villa Borghese gardens
A short distance to the north was a more natural, irregularly shaped lake with a “temple” built in 1786, Tempio di Esculapio. The temple was flanked by statues releasing water from tipped over urns which people renting boats rowed out to see. It was quite peaceful. Next I walked past a museum with modern art — kept on walking! Also nearby were “academies” for Egyptian, Belgian, and Romanian studies and art. The Egyptian Academy’s entrance was particularly neat, covered with hieroglyphs.
Boating on one of Villa Borghese gardens’ lakes
Tempio di Esculapio, built in the late 1700s, in the gardens
Birds perching on every surface they can find!
Facade for the Egypitan Academy in Rome
Rome public light rail
I finally arrived at the Villa Giulia, built by Pope Julius III in 1551-1553. The grounds were nice with formal gardens and an elaborate covered walkway surrounding them. The real treasure lay within, however, as the villa housed the largest collection of Etruscan artifacts in the world. The Etruscans lived in central Italy (Tuscany and Lavio, north of Rome) from the 9th century BC to about 291BC when Rome conquered them. Through many displays the museum described the various ages of Etruscan civilization and the huge influence that the Greeks had on them. This was particularly apparent with their pottery, which shifted from having black figures to red figures just as Greek did.
Walkway around the courtyard of Rome’s Villa Giulia
Detail of the walkway’s ceiling
Greek-inspired Etruscan vases on display in Villa Giulia
The best known piece of Etruscan art was housed there, a sarcophagus depicting a husband and wife. There were also a reconstruction of an Etruscan tomb that was really neat as well as several temple facades that were rebuilt with the original masonry. One fascinating piece of art was a temple facade depicting “Seven Against Thebes”, a play by Aeschylus first performed in 467BC. It even has one character, Tydeus, cracking open another’s (Melanippus) skull and feasting on his brains — ancient Walking Dead! Also on display were chariot pieces, shields, spears, and other really interesting grave objects.
Sarcofago degli Sposi, Sarcophagus of the Spouses, very famous Etruscan art
Depiction of “Seven Against Thebes” — yes, that guy is getting his brains munched!
Reconstructed temple facade with original masonry
Another view of the museum’s artifacts
About 3p I headed back into the sunlight and south to Rome, passing through the north gate, the Porta del Popolo. Beyond was the Piazza del Popolo, the center of which had one of the oldest obelisks in Rome, from Heliopolis and the time of Sety I. Augustus had it moved to Rome and erected in the Circus Maximum in 10BC but it was relocated to the plaza in 1589. Amazing.
Another of Rome’s transportation options
Piazza del Popolo, on the northern end of Rome
The sun behind the ancient Egyptian Obelisk of Sety I
Backside of the Porta del Popolo beyond the obelisk
Walked back past the Spanish Steps and near Trevi Fountain, getting back to the room around 4:15p. I Facetimed with Michelle some and learned that she and Addison had had quite the time with customs in Charlotte. I goofed around some, enjoying a siesta to rest my feet, Facetiming with Genetta as well to confirm her arrival the next day. Headed to dinner at about 6:30p or so to a place called Melo’s. They weren’t open, however, as it was quite early for Italian dinner, so I wandered around the forum a bit as well as visited my favorite tower, Torre delle Milizie.
Elevated covered walkway, Rome
The obelisk and church at the top of the Spanish Steps in the afternoon sun
Detail of the obelisk
Yet another view of the Torre delle Milizie (this won’t be the last)
Interesting lamp seen while strolling about Rome
Finally I ate at about 7:15p. It didn’t go so well. First, I thought the water was asking if I wanted a glass with my water, I was like “sure, of course…” but he had asked if I wanted gas — carbonated water. Blech! I also felt awkward eating spaghetti in the near-empty restaurant, I guess I never learned how to eat it properly as the proprietor took pity on me and showed how Italians eat it — by twirling the pasta with a fork on top of a spoon. I never really got the hang of it. Kind of an awkward meal all around, but not that bad tasting.
Stopped by and got some gelato from the place adjacent to the restaurant but even that wasn’t great. Headed back to the room by 8:30p and blogged and watched soccer (Wales 3 – Belgium 1) and listened to music until 3a (why?!) — their internet still sucked!