Woke up fairly early as we were uncertain what we’d be doing for the day. We had a few options — horseback riding near Homer, taking a bay cruise out to the opposite side of Kachemak Bay, or leisurely returning to Anchorage and stopping by along the way to see a few historical things and maybe even catch the tidal bore (where the outgoing tide collides with the incoming tide forming a wave) at 4:07p near Bird Point in Turnagain Arm. In the end we ended up getting out way too late to do the first two. Probably fortuitous as Genetta wasn’t really into the idea of a eight hour, 13 mile ride that the Homer horse guy does and the family as a whole wasn’t thrilled with the idea of hours spent across the bay. I did look up shorter horse ride options but was unable to book a tour for the day.
So we headed to a cafe / bakery for breakfast off the Homer Spit. It was tasty — we all had pretty standard breakfast faire with the exception of Michelle who was adventurous and had reindeer sausage. She said it was pretty good. I had some sourdough blueberry pancakes that were delicious in addition to bacon and eggs. Bought a few baked goods for the road trip ahead and headed back to Land’s End and checked out. Michelle and I walked out on the rocky beach one last time and I snapped some photos of the mountains wreathed in dark low-hanging clouds.
View from Lands End, Homer, looking across Kachemak Bay
Ship entering Kachemak Bay near Homer, Alaska
Seaplane docked at Beluga Lake near Homer
At the bakery earlier I had noticed a gentleman wearing rubber boots and, since we needed some to pan for gold, asked him where he got them. We headed out on East End Road and found the store. Though nice boots were quite expensive it turns out that cannery boots should be perfect and at $25 a pop it didn’t break the bank. We also saw some great views of a bit further up Kachemak Bay including an impressive glacier and the Homer Spit.
Large glacier across Kachemak Bay from Homer
Home Spit, a five-mile long glacial moraine jutting into Kachemak Bay
Headed out, checking out a vantage point that was at the very southern tip of the western part of the Kenai peninsula where we could see both the eastern part with the peaks in Kenai Fjords National Park but also the peaks of the Alaska peninsula across Cook Inlet to the west. Spectacular! Headed further up the Sterling Highway past Anchor Point (the Blue Bus Diner regrettably closed, I would’ve loved another coffee milkshake!) and to the town of Ninilchik where the really scenic Russian Orthodox church “The Transfiguration of Our Lord” (built 1846, re-built 1901) is located. The church stands atop a cliff looking down on the village below as well as across Cook Inlet to the Alaska peninsula range. It is a tiny thing filled to the brim with iconography and a beautiful chandelier hanging from a sky blue painted wooden roof. The church itself is surrounded by a white picket fence and a sizable graveyard overgrown with colorful wildflowers and each grave marked by a white-painted Orthodox cross. Visited the gift shop and picked up a magnet and barely resisted picking up some Russian stacking dolls.
View looking southeast from Homer across Kachemak Bay
Typical terrain in the western side of Kenai peninsula
View from Anchor Point looking west toward Alaska peninsula (has many volcanoes)
Town of Nilichik on Kenai peninsula
Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord Russian Orthodox Church in Nilichik, Alaska
Note the mountain in the lower part of the shot -- I worked hard for that. =/
Hit the road shortly thereafter and headed up to the town of Kenai. We were getting hungry by then and stopped at a pit BBQ place. The less said about that the better — high priced and just not great (pulled pork is NOT to be drenched in ketchup). Oh well, on every trip we have a dud or two and this one was definitely in the dud column. Left lunch and drove a short ways to the Russian Orthodox church “Holy Assumption of the Virgin Mary” (built 1895-6). While not as spectacular as the first one we visited it was a bit older and worth a visit. One particularly amusing incident when a cell phone went off in the church and the ringtone was… less than appropriate. Everyone looked around until the guide went over and got it from behind his desk. Whooops. After leaving the church we saw a scenic view of the bay that Kenai sits on as well as the Alaska peninsula peaks across Cook Inlet. We also looked for the remains of Fort Kenay (the US fort built right after purchase in 1869) but were not successful in finding it. Oh well, not a big deal, it is a reconstruction anyhow.
View of Cook Inlet from Kenai, Alaska
Holy Assumption of the Virgin Mary Russian Orthodox in Kenai
Headed back on the road and picked up some food for Addison (he wisely ascertained the bad nature of the place we ate at for lunch and chose not to eat) at McDonalds as well as some half-and-half tea for Michelle and I to assist in keeping us alert during the long drive ahead. At this point it was about 3p and we knew there was no way we’d see the tidal bore. Oh well.
Chugach State Park, Kenai peninsula
Lake view in Chugach State Park
Chugach State Park -- love the birch trees!
Higher elevation pass in Chugach State Park
Drove back through to Turnagain Arm, enjoying the sites and stopping from time to time to stretch and use the bathroom. What an amazing drive! Finally got to Turnagain Arm and noticed at one of the scenic pull-offs that people were staring out in the water with binoculars. It couldn’t be the tidal bore — that was a couple of hours ago. Turns out it was a pod of three or so Beluga whales (endangered ones found only in Cook Inlet and distinct from other populations). We hopped back in the car and went back toward the head of Turnagain Arm, the direction that the whales were going. Managed to see them all again, mostly just their backs but occasionally spouting.
Chugach State Park near Portage, head of Turnagain Arm
Head of Turnagain Arm
Two Cook Inlet Beluga whales
After the belugas we headed to McHugh Creek, a short trail overlooking Turnagain Arm and also some minor falls and a nice swimming hole. Learned a bit about the lush valleys that can form in the nooks and crannies of the mountains surrounding the arm. Very cool. Headed back to the car and arrived in Anchorage once again. We chose to eat at Gwennie’s. I had the club sandwich, Michelle a shrimp cocktail, Genetta some strawberry Belgian waffles, and Addison had steak and scrambled eggs. Very good food.
View of the south side of Turnagain Arm
View looking south from north side of Turnagain Arm, near McHugh Falls, Chugach State Park
McHugh Falls in Chugach State Park
Checked into the hotel and got ready to visit the hot tub. Thought we had it all to ourselves and then a guy with five kids showed up. I introduced myself and learned that he was from Nome and visits Anchorage to get away with his family (including another kid to bring the total to six) once a year since there isn’t much opportunity to get away in Nome since it is not connected to the road system. Learned a ton of things about Nome, Eskimo culture, etc. Turns out Nome is having some rampant inflation since the discovery of Bering Sea gold and the influx of people needing services. One miner is even mining the beach adjacent to the spot where they do their polar bear swim each year — causing a stir. Also learned they pay $6 a gallon for gas, $7 for a gallon of milk, and $14 – $20 for soda. Wow. Nome had its first thunderstorm in three years the other day. Finally, he recommended checking out some of the events in the World Eskimo-Indian Olympics that’ll be taking place while we’re in Fairbanks. Really nice guy.
Headed back to the room, took a shower, and blogged prior to bed. Honestly not a great day, but the belugas and meeting that nice man from Nome redeemed it pretty well. On to Glenallen then Fairbanks tomorrow!
Route for Tuesday, July 14, 2015