We awoke about 8a and headed to breakfast around 9a at the lodge. While Addison abstained and remained in bed, Genetta enjoyed a chorizo burrito while Michelle and I had bacon and eggs (and myself added some hash browns). Very tasty, as was the coffee. We checked out of the lodge about 10a and talked about renting some canoes but the family was a little run down and not feeling it (as happens on these trips sometimes, they can be a grind).
We headed up the Gunflint Trail a tiny bit more before turning around, taking pictures of a beautiful lake and some flowers on the way back to Grand Marais on the shores of Lake Superior. Once in Grand Marais we drove northeast up 61 to Grand Portage National Monument, stopping along the way a couple of times for pictures.
We got to Grand Portage about noon. The site is a reconstruction of the trading post located on the plot in the 1700s. The North Western Co operated it and there were two primary types of traders that would visit to trade furs, resupply, etc. — the Montrealers (who slept under their canoe) and the Voyageurs (who slept in a tent). It was named after the portage not far away that the traders would use to travel from the lake to the Pigeon River, which offered access to the interior. The natives, the Objiwe people, worked with the Voyageurs and were employed within the trading post. The canoes that the traders used were immense — 38 feet long and carried four tons of cargo and were powered by sixteen paddlers.
After the American Revolution the newly formed United States owned the site. The trading post was willing to roll with the change in ownership from British to American until the Americans asked for back taxes (all the way back to the post’s founding). In response the trading post packed up the entire site, buildings and all, and moved to Fort William in Thunder Bay (now in Ontario, Canada) about 25 to 30 miles further up the lake shore.
The site had a neat museum with dioramas of traders camping out and a decent video. Genetta also saw a ferret — or something — while she and Michelle were at the lake shore on a dock.
Hopped back in the car about 2p and drove a short distance further north, just shy of the Canadian border. As we had been to Canada, and Ontario in particular, in 2011 we decided to forgo the hassle of the border crossing and hiked up to High Falls. It was advertised as a short (500 foot) walk but they lied. Oh did they lie. It was closer to a mile, we think the 500 foot figure probably came from being 500 feet off of the main trail. Well worth it though, a quite high falls with lots of spray that led to a marshy river (the aforementioned Pigeon) that separates the US and Canada. We met a really nice couple from Minnesota that recommended Grandma’s Saloon for burgers in Duluth’s Canal Park.
We picked up snacks at an Objiwe reservation convenience store then later stopped at a rest area run by Minnesota State Parks where we picked up some magnets (including one that says “Yeah, you betcha!”). A short distance later we stopped at Split Rock Lighthouse at just about 5:30p. As we only had a few minutes before closing and the fee to even see it was a ridiculous $10 I went alone. It was OK, not very remarkable. I guess I’m spoiled by the majestic Outer Banks lighthouses! While on a spectacular cliff it was a squat structure. The keeper had to check on the light every two hours. I was last up to see it for the day, which was pretty cool, they closed the door behind me as I left. A big storm in 1905 with 30 foot waves sunk many ships and killed 11 sailors, prompting Congress in 1907 to allocate $75,000 for the creation of the lighthouse. It was built in 1910 and in operation until 1969.
While the weather had been a bit gray with light spits of rain earlier in the day the clouds had by evening moved out. As we drove southwest toward Duluth we saw patches of beautiful purple, pink, and white flowers beside the road. In a really neat moment Sirius played Gordon Lightfoot’s “Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald” about the famous wreck of a ship on Lake Superior.
We arrived in Duluth and were immediately impressed by the Aerial Lift Bridge, built in 1929. The roads were quite confusing but we managed to finally get to our hotel (a Holiday Inn Express, of course) in Superior, Wisconsin, about 7:30p. Headed back into Duluth and sought out Grandma’s based on the recommendation back at High Falls. The Appetizer of cheese sticks was good. Addison had a bacon cheeseburger while Genetta and myself had the Original Bicycle Burger with bacon (three cheese, two patties, onions, mushrooms, etc.). Michelle had the penne pasta. It was decent, if a little loud. Definitely had a “roadside eatery” feel with old toys, metal signs, etc. all about and a gift shop in front.
Canal Park had a freighter ship (serving as a museum), an aquarium, and a theater. We went to the 10p showing of Wonder Woman, which we enjoyed. Got out at 12:30a and back to the hotel at 1a where I backed up photos and summarized the prior two days for future blogging until 2:30a. An exhausting day!